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Burning in a Winter Wonderland:
A Chat with NWTF Forester Gary Burger

Our Next Chat Topic Will Be About Gear for the Outdoor Enthusiast

In our next issue, NWTF experts will answer your questions about outdoor gear — just in time for the holiday shopping season! So, if you're in the market for new camouflage, or you're not quite sure what kind of gun or other gear will best suit the hunter in your family, look no further. The NWTF's experts are here to help.

Click here and submit your questions about outdoor gear by Wednesday, Nov. 18. By entering your question about gear for outdoor enthusiasts, you'll be entered to win a prize.

Note: The NWTF makes every effort to answer questions that are submitted. However, due to time and space constraints, not all questions may be answered.

Since You Asked...

To view a list of all the questions we received that didn't quite fit under a designated topic, click here.

Q: How does prescribed burning benefit wildlife and not damage the essential habitat when wildfires leave destruction, desolation and damage to the wildlife habitat?
— Mike Giles, Meridian, Miss.

A: It all boils down to the severity of the fire. Prescribed fires are conducted during favorable weather conditions, which include moderate humidity, lower temperature and lighter winds, and are less likely than wildfires to become too intense. In fact, using prescribed fire as a habitat management tool significantly reduces the chance of a wildfire occurring in the immediate area.

On the other hand, wildfires are difficult to control due to unfavorable weather conditions including low humidity, high temperature and high winds, and unnatural amounts of brush, fallen limbs, pine needles, etc., which are commonly referred to as "fuel," on the ground. These fires damage thousands of homes and thousands of acres of property each year.

Prescribed fires are planned and conducted in a fashion as to manipulate the understory vegetation and not damage the overstory trees, their underground root systems and/or the organic soil layer. Wildfires do not afford this type of selective control and are often very intense, damaging the overstory trees above and below ground, completing removing all litter and organic matter and leaving bare mineral soil. Wildfires can be so severe that they damage the microbial soil activity as well — in effect sterilizing the areas for years.

For more about prescribed fire, check out What's Hot for Wildlife?

Q: Will burning in the growing season harm the animals since spring is the time when all are having young and birds are nesting? Also, will burning during the dormant season kill off the young trees, but let them come back to produce food for the animals?
— Gary Gates, Lexington, S.C.

A: Since wild turkey hens nest in the spring, and their nests may be destroyed during a burn, the topic of growing season burns is usually controversial. Some believe nest loss will harm turkey populations, but the benefits of improved habitat far outweigh the few destroyed nests. In fact, even if a nest is lost, up to two-thirds of hens will likely re-nest.

Nearly all wildlife species are very adept at avoiding any negative effects from fire, even during this time of year. It is important to remember that prescribed burning is usually not done on a large landscape scale, and the relatively smaller area that is burned will quickly recover and provide the type of essential brood habitat for many ground nesting birds that is lacking in most areas.

Dormant season burning generally has a top-killing effect on many woody species. Although the upper shoot may be killed by a prescribed fire, many hardwood species of trees and shrubs will have a significant reserve of carbohydrates in their root system during the dormant season. This allows them to resprout, sometimes very vigorously, the next spring. However, some of the smaller, less vigorous young trees may be killed altogether by dormant season burns, especially if they are repeated every few years.

If your objective is more fuel reduction and "cleaning up" or "opening up" your stand of trees, dormant season burning will work just fine. If your ultimate goal is to change the understory to a more herbaceous, grassy brood habitat, conversion to growing season burns at some point will do a much better job.

To learn more, check out Prescribed Fire: What the Doctor Ordered, a Q&A with NWTF's Chief Conservation Officer James Earl Kennamer, Ph.D.

Q: Will dormant season burning help eradicate invasive autumn olive?
— John Cearlock, Illinois

A: Burning of nearly all invasive species, including autumn olive, can be part of an integrated control strategy. Burning itself in most cases, especially dormant season burning, will not eradicate these invasives since most invasives have a very high capacity to resprout. Growing season burning after full leaf-out is much more effective, as carbohydrates are in the upper portions of the plants and resprouting capacity is diminished.

A common integrated strategy would be to use a prescribed burn to top-kill the larger shrubs and prepare the site for a more effective herbicide treatment. Resprouts should be allowed to become adequately reestablished so that herbicide uptake and effectiveness is maximized. Applying Arsenal AC or VANQUISH herbicide to the leaves as a one percent solution in water with a surfactant from April to October will do the trick.

If your burning is not effective at top-killing the larger bushes, and they are too tall to foliar spray, you can use Garlon 4 herbicide as a 20-percent solution in a commercially available basal oil, diesel fuel or kerosene carrier with the herbicide distributor's recommended penetrant as a basal bark spray (January to February or May to October).

The most labor-intense, but highly effective, method for larger shrubs is to cut the shrub down and apply herbicide directly to the stump. Ten percent Arsenal AC or 20-percent glyphosate in water with a surfactant is recommended for cut stump applications. All in all, burning can help, but don't count on it to be 100 percent effective. Herbicide applications and/or mechanical clearing methods will most likely have to be incorporated into your control strategies.

Q: In a mixed stand of 75 percent pine and 25 percent oak (white and red), when would be best time to burn without damaging the oaks?
— Bill Aston, Latta, S.C.

A: Assuming you're referring to a more mature stand of trees, I would recommend a dormant season fire, at least to start with. The cooler temperatures and less volatile conditions in the winter months (January through March) will produce the coolest, safest burn for your oaks. If you have oaks that you're particularly concerned about, you can even rake the litter away from the base of these trees to help limit the effects of the fire. Most mature oaks are fire tolerant enough that this isn't necessary, but a giant white oak under your deer stand may warrant a little extra effort just for insurance. Fuel loading and the amount of time since your last burn are key factors. Reducing the fuel load with dormant season fires can open the door to future growing season burns, which are better for the understory herbaceous layer.

Note: See Cory and Paul's questions below.

Q: Would you recommend a prescribed burn for a large tract of 10-year-old hardwoods? We have several varieties of oak, ash, cypress, pecan and persimmon planted on I believe 12- to 15-foot centers.
— Paul Rosenzweig, Georgia

A: No. While prescribed burning can be beneficial in hardwood stands, as well as pine, small hardwoods are generally susceptible to top-kill from fire. This is one of the primary reasons that prescribed burning works as a habitat management tool. Killing these small hardwoods and shrubs out of the understory of a more developed stand (i.e. a little older than yours) and promoting more herbaceous species is the primary goal.

Most hardwoods do not develop a bark thick enough to tolerate fire until they are 4 to 6 inches in diameter. Their corresponding height growth also removes them vertically from the heat effect of any fire. Some hardwood species never develop fire tolerance, such as the cypress you mentioned, or any other thin-barked species. This relative difference in fire tolerance among hardwood species can be useful with prescribed burning to alter the composition of a stand (i.e. promote oaks over sweetgum and yellow poplar). However, it sounds like you've got a great species composition already (soft and hard mast), and the relatively young age of your stand would cause concern when considering burning.

Q: I've heard that dormant season burns are good for fuel reduction, but wouldn't it benefit the habitat to burn it in the growing season if possible? Should a dormant season burn be postponed in anticipation of burning the next growing season?
— Cory Burch, Homosassa, Fla.

A: You've almost answered your own question Cory. In general, growing season burns are more beneficial in terms of habitat produced. However, high fuel loads that have developed from years of no burning can be a problem when considering spring burning. These high fuel loads can produce a fire that is too intense, and may actually damage the overstory trees with a hotter spring burn. If the area you want to burn has not been burned in the last three to five years, it would be best to start with a cooler dormant season fire to reduce the fuel load, and then follow up with a growing season burn two years after. This is a common scenario for fire managers reintroducing fire into unburned areas, and in cases of extreme fuel build-up, the dormant season fuel reduction burns may be repeated several times before converting to habitat-oriented spring burns.

Q: I'm trying to get rid of sweet gum and other types of woody growth and replace with grasses and other planted material under pine canopy for quail and turkey's benefit. When is the best time to burn, what should I plant and when? Thanks.
— Tripp Copeland, Luthersville, Ga.

A: Growing season burns are much more effective at controlling hardwoods, particularly more aggressive species such as sweetgum, because the fire is top killing the tree when most of the carbohydrate in the tree is above ground (i.e. actively growing shoots and leaves). Dormant season burns will top kill hardwoods, but there is a large carbohydrate reserve in the root system at this time, and the root will simply resprout come spring. Generally, any time after the leaves have fully developed in the spring (April to May in your area) into mid-summer will work well.

Note: If the area has not been burned in along time, take Cory's question about fuel reduction above into consideration.

As far as what to plant for quail and turkeys as an understory planting, it would be hard to beat Native Warm Season Grasses (NWSGs ). Food plot species like clover, grains, chufa, etc. are great, but in terms of overall habitat, these NWSG species provide the best brood-rearing habitat (food and cover) for ground nesting birds. NWSGs can be found in mixes suited for your area and would include things like broomstraw, Indian grass, big and little bluestem and other bunch-type grasses.

I highly recommend that you get in touch with your county Natural Resource Conservation Service (NRCS) agent. Not only can they recommend the appropriate plantings and provide technical advice, the NRCS also has cost-share programs aimed at producing just the type of habitat you're looking for. Some of the practices that can be covered include constructing firebreaks, burning, planting NWSGs and treating with herbicides, which can be coupled with burning on tough species such as sweetgum.

Q: I have two areas that total about 15 acres that have been cut with a few pine trees scattered. The areas are getting overgrown with brush and sweet gum trees. I would like to kill the undergrowth and sweet gums. Is it better to wait until spring when the sap begins to rise or will it do just as well to burn in the fall?
— Stanley Sides, Auburn, Ala.

A: See Tripp Copeland's question above.

Q: What is the best way to conduct a late season burn? Who do I have to contact or involve in such a process? Are there any permits or regulations I need or need to know about?
— Ray Carter, West Point, Va.

A: Your state forestry agency would be the best source of all of the information you're looking for. Many state forestry agencies conduct prescribed burns for a moderate fee. Almost all state forestry agencies also have a notification procedure for outdoor burning and a set of regulations you must abide by. These regulations pertain to the fire itself and the smoke that is produced. Many state forestry agencies also have certification course for folks who want to learn more about burning and become officially certified to conduct prescribed burns themselves. While it is not mandatory in all states, such a certification course is a really good idea, and generally has only a minimal cost. Your state also may have a Prescribed Fire Council that landowners can participate in to learn more about burning.

Q: I have a small piece of property (40 acres) near McLeansboro. It consists of 27 acres of Conservation Reserve Program land and the rest is tree lines and brush. There is a timbered tract north of our property. We have a good population of birds in the area but I want to create habitat to pull them over to our property more often. I think a burn with subsequent small plantings of clover and chufa might be the answer. However, I don't have any equipment or expertise in this area. In fact, I live out of state. I need to be connected with people that can get the work done. Does the NWFT facilitate that in any way? Thanks!
— Mike Bundy, Mcleansboro, Ill.

A: We can help. We have regional biologists scattered across the country who can help put you in touch with the right folks. You can find the NWTF Regional Biologist closest to you on our Web site or in your Turkey Country magazine.

He/she may suggest that you contact your state forestry agency and/or your local Natural Resource Conservation Service agent as a first step. Your state forestry agency may conduct prescribed burns for a reasonable fee, or could at least make recommendations of professionals in your area. Your local NRCS agent would be able make recommendations about your plantings and may even be able to offer some cost-share programs for some of the habitat work you are considering.

Q: How can we convince timber companies that we lease hunting rights from to work with us and allow prescribed burning? We want the timber companies to either let us enlist the assistance from the state forestry commission or conduct the burns themselves.
— Richard Ward, Manchester, Ga.

A: That's a tough question, Richard. While most land managers that work for the timber companies realize the wildlife benefits of prescribed burning, they are driven by their corporate investors to produce economic returns (i.e. grow trees as fast as possible into the most valuable products).

The use of prescribed burning poses a few problems with this profit maximization strategy. First, it involves the expenses of installing and maintaining firebreaks, personnel to conduct burns, liability insurance, etc. Secondly, any use of fire can slow the growth of the pines for a year or two, while they recover from the stress (however minimal) of the fire. Finally, there is always a risk that the fire may damage a profit-producing stand of trees altogether, if not done properly, or in younger trees that are more susceptible.

Most timber companies are growing pines in shorter rotations, which exacerbates this problem of time spent in younger age classes. My suggestions would be to be willing to help foot the bill for the burning (maybe in the form of a slightly higher lease rate?), focus on areas with more mature trees, start with cooler dormant season burns, and point out that properly conducted prescribed burns can also be beneficial to overall timber production.

Eliminating competition can concentrate more resources including water and nutrients on the crop trees; ash provides essential elements for tree growth; and fire can help to prune crop trees. Burning for wildlife and timber management can be done compatibly, but convincing investors of this may be difficult.

Q: I've been planting food plots now for the last six years and have never had a real healthy plot. Would prescribed burning prior to planting the annuals get rid of the weeds in the plot?

Secondly, if I wanted to establish a `sweet plot' in a small bush lot in the center of three fields, what should I be aware of before burning? There are fallen dead windfall trees in the bush lot, and leaves - all that associated in a bush - so do I clear all this first and then burn or can I burn with all that is on the ground, and then plow, fertilize and plant?

How can I keep the burn from getting out of hand and then what steps should I take to plant this wood lot? I would say the planting area would be about 80 yards by 80 yards square.
— Keith Correia, Brampton, Ontario, Canada

A: Burning your food plot may take care of the weeds that you see, but the dormant weed seed in your soil may be a bigger problem. If you disk prior to planting, a whole new set of weed seeds will come to the surface and you may have the same problem. I would recommend using a pre-emergent herbicide before planting, and then maybe even following up with an over-the-top herbicide suited to whatever you're planting.

As for your bush lot, there is no reason that you can't burn it as it is, provided you can plow a good firebreak around it. However, don't expect the burn to completely consume the larger downed materials, stumps, or even some of the green vegetation. You could burn and then clear whatever is left, or just clear it initially and burn the piled debris. If clearing and burning piled debris, take special care to minimize the amount of dirt in the pile, as this can lead to extended smoldering and smoke dispersion problems.

With any type of burning, making sure you have adequate firebreaks, equipment, and resources (people, water, etc.) is imperative. Contact your state's forestry agency to ensure you are following notification procedures and any outdoor burning regulations. Finally, make sure to take soil test for your food plots and lime and fertilize accordingly. This is one of the most common reasons for unsuccessful or poor-quality food plots.

Q: I would like to do a small burn on some of my land to make it better for our local growing turkey population as well as other wildlife. This area has a number of down dead trees - some have been there a long time, in fact some are rotting - others not so long. Should I be concerned about removing these prior to burning to prevent the fire from getting too involved or burning longer than I want? Also, what is the best time of year to do a burn in northeastern Texas? Thanks.
— Scott Dawson, Clarksville, Texas

A: Large downed material can burn for an extended period of time after being ignited in a prescribed fire. If your area is relatively small, and there are not any really smoke-sensitive areas (a low spot in a road, a hospital, a housing development, etc.) nearby, you can probably allow the fire to consume these materials.

If the amount of heavy fuels seems like an excessive amount, or you have potentially smoke-sensitive areas to consider, removing some or all of the heavy fuel may be warranted. Concentrate on the newer downed material, as the rotting pieces will likely burn up pretty well. As far as timing, it may be wise to start with a cooler winter burn (between January and March) given that you may have a heavier fuel load.

After a couple of winter burns, your fuel loading issue should be minimized and converting to a growing season fire (between April and July) should be possible. Ask your local state forestry agent to take a look and give you some advice on fuel loading, timing and regulations on outdoor burning in Texas.

Q: I live in an area that has been destroyed by an ice storm. There are trees, tops and limbs down everywhere. There is no way I can clean the woods up and am wondering how I may use prescribed fire to accomplish this and how I can get help or guidance to do this. Thank you!
— Michael Whitman, Smithland, Ky.

A: See Scott Dawson's question above.

Q: How wide do the fire lines need to be to ensure that fire does not jump the line? How far away do penned-up animals need to be from the area to be burned? How far away from the burned areas do wildlife move to ensure safety? And how soon will wildlife return to the area?
— Selina Potter, Hosford, Fla.

A: Standard fire breaks are usually 6- to 8-feet wide, or the width of a standard fire plow or set of disks. The wider the better, but you don't need to get carried away. Proper weather conditions and the method of igniting and controlling the fire are of primary importance in making sure your fire stays contained.

As far as penned-up animals, it would depend on the particular animals, but generally not very far (maybe 50 to 100 yards). I managed an equestrian tract for some time and burned wooded areas immediately adjacent to horse paddocks. Nearly all of the horses showed little response to the fire or smoke and some were even curious with their heads hanging over the fence onto the firebreak. I would just make sure the smoke was generally blowing away from the animals if possible and use your best judgment as to how skittish they may be. Most animals, domestic and wild, have an innate understanding that fire is a natural force.

Wildlife will only move out of the direct line of fire, often holding their position until the fire is right on top of them. Usually they will move just far enough to get out of the immediate area being burned. Rarely will they move any distance, and they are often back into the burned area as soon as the fire passes (i.e. while it is still smoking). Birds are particularly quick to return to the burned area, as insects and seeds freed by the fire are abundant immediately after the fire. While new green vegetation may take a week or two to come on, larger animals such as deer also return to these areas almost immediately. All in all, animals are very well adapted to fire, perhaps much more so than we modern humans are.

Q: Why do we burn in the spring? The U.S. Forest Service has burned as late as April 22 in Union County the last two or three years. We have had the three worst years of turkey hunting in Union County in the past 25 years.

I have talked to some of the out-of-state burners and they tell me they never burn during March and April. I think burning may be beneficial, but it is absolutely stupid to burn after February 15 in South Carolina. Thousands of turkey nests, small turkeys, songbird nests, small rabbits, fawns and other creatures perish when you burn in the early spring.

There is enough natural pressure on turkeys successfully hatching and surviving without man made interference. The nest that is burned may just be the nest that would have had a high survival rate. I am irate with the Forest Service, SCDNR and NWTF if they believe this is good for our turkeys.
— Jerry Brannon, Union, S.C.

A: Your concerns are very common. Research has shown that the negative effects of burning during the breeding season are much less than you might think. Please refer to the research paper Lightning-Season Burning: Friend or Foe of Breeding Birds by Jim Cox and Brent Widener with the Tall Timbers Research Station and Land Conservancy. It is much more likely that your poor turkey hunting over the past few years is related to poor brood hatches and the lack of appropriate brood-rearing habitat. This open, grassy brood habitat is exactly what these spring burns are creating.

The out-of-state burners you talked to may not be familiar with southeastern ecology, which is directly correlated with growing season fire. Some nests may be destroyed with a growing season fire, but the majority of hen turkeys will simply renest. The overall gain in proper brood-rearing habitat far outweighs the disturbance of a few nests. As for the small animals, they are generally able to avoid such fires, even if they are very young. Good habitat is what supports a population of turkeys, and growing season fires are a key element in producing the habitat that turkeys, and other ground-nesting birds, need to reproduce.