Peeping Toms
Learn to photograph wildlife now

Q: I found out lighting can be problem while taking picture or videos. What's the best way to light a scene?
— Charles Anderson, New Berlin, N.Y.
A: You always want your subject to be the brightest object in your frame. Never have the background brighter than your subject unless you are trying to achieve a silhouette shot like one of a person standing in the woods with a bright field behind him or her. Your subject would be in the shade while the rest of the shot is not.

If you are using natural light, make sure the sun is behind you unless you are in full shade. I recommend setting up in either all sun or all shade.

Try to avoid filming in uneven light like having your subject in the woods with half of their face lit by the sun and the other half covered by shadows. If you are in an area with uneven light and you are filming a person, try to use something to shade him or her and then use artificial light to brighten their face. I recommend led light panels because the batteries last a long time. You also can use reflector shields to throw the sunlight toward your subject.

Since wild animals won't pose for you, just do the best you can to set up where you can get even lighting. Uneven light it is natural in the woods, though, so the shot will still look good. Just make sure you use the auto iris function, which allows the camera to adjust to get the best picture in the given lighting conditions, unless you know how to use the manual iris setting.
— Joe Mole, National Wild Turkey Federation video producer and videographer

Q: My budget is small for purchasing a video camera. What would you suggest for the many of us that are in this situation? In other words, what is the best video camera for us to consider? If you can't recommend just one maybe you can recommend several. Most of us with limited resources would be looking at a compact, handheld-type camera. Please recommend one that allows for a little "shakiness" while videoing.
— Craig Klingelhofer, Aitkin, Minn.
A: The cheapest camera I would recommend buying is the Sony Handycam HDR-FX7 for between $1,700 and $1,900. Remember that you get want you pay for. I recommend waiting a little longer and saving up more money to buy nicer equipment. But if you are set on buying sooner rather than later, I recommend a camera that has an optical image stabilizer built in it. The image stabilizer will take out the smallest shakes but will leave in the little shakes and the big ones.

I also recommend the camera be able to shoot 1080i high definition. Keep in mind that you should shoot to a format that will allow you to retrieve the data. In other words, if you record footage to a MiniDV tape, make sure you have equipment that will allow you to view your footage.

Buy a camera with some weight to it. You will shake more with a palm recorder because the lighter the camera, the more you shake.

Most importantly I recommend a tripod for turkey hunting and a tree arm for deer hunting, which will take most of the shakes out of your videos. Professionals use them for this reason.
— Joe Mole, NWTF video producer and videographer

Q: What is the best way to take photos in extreme low light situations without using flash and disturbing the animals or birds?
— Joseph Zarych, Holland, Mich.
A: Photographing in low light is tough, and you're going to sacrifice some image quality to stop movement (blur) by the subject. First, buy an inexpensive tripod, which will be priceless when it comes to reducing camera movement in low-light conditions.

Next, set the camera's ISO setting to between 400 and 800 (higher if you have it), or if your camera has a low-light mode, select that.

Lastly, when depressing the shutter button, think of it as the trigger on a high-powered rifle. Hold your breath, be as still as you possibly can and gently and smoothly depress the release without disturbing the camera. If your camera came with a remote control or remote cord, use that. Remember, when you zoom in to magnify your subject, you will also magnify movement, so wider shots will be less blurry.
— Matt Lindler, editor of JAKES Magazine and NWTF photography director

Q: When is the best time of the day to capture still shots in the field - in morning light or evening light?
— Jason Majors, Alexander, Ark.
A: Both of these times offer their own unique beauty. Early morning provides the best opportunity to capture the morning fog and the shimmer of dew-covered plants. Evening's light is brighter and often more colorful. The images are typically crisper and more vibrant because of the lack of moisture in the air, which diffuses the light and clarity of the surroundings. So, to answer your question, both can be great times of day for taking pictures, depending on your objective.
— Matt Lindler, editor of JAKES Magazine and NWTF photography director

Q: What are the factors and features I should look for when buying a trail camera?
— Rick Layser, Middlebrook, Va.
A: Trail cameras are great tools for landowners and hunters to help them manage their wildlife populations and properties. An eye on the ground 24/7, properly placed trail cameras will capture critters you had no idea were on your land.

Selecting a good trail camera depends on your personal needs. Some people prefer video instead of still photos, so that option will be a consideration for them when selecting a camera. If you intend to make prints from your images, you'll need at least a 3-megapixel camera. An infrared lighting system seems to disturb the animals less than a flash, so that may be a consideration for you.

On our hunting lease, we employ a variety of cameras such as the Bushnell Trophy Cam, PlotWatcher, Remington Ghost and Moultrie Outfitter. All of these cameras perform as promised by the manufacturer and provide us with images and videos we can use in our management plans. Plus, it's fun to see the animals benefitting from the planting and land management the members of my hunt club and I have done.
— Matt Lindler, editor of JAKES Magazine and NWTF photography director

Q: When you go out to video, do you need to have a permit from a U.S. office of any type (such as Forest Service) or can you do it without a permit? This would be around your area.
— Donnie Fell, Silver City , N.M.
A: Instead of assuming that any policy is the standard, it's always best to call each location in advance. I have had several situations where I needed written permission to video, but more times than not the property manager will give access right over the phone. Also, when I make that initial contact I try to ask about other policies and any activities they might have scheduled so that I can better coordinate my time and effort. Your pre-production efforts will always pay huge dividends in the production world.
— Bill Ridlehoover, NWTF video producer and editor

Q: What is the best lens or lenses to use from daylight to midday?
— Tommy Berry, Hermleigh, Texas
A: Manufactures today offer a variety of lenses, but the basic mechanisms are still the same. Focal length, focal ratio (aperture) and zoom capability are important, but when searching for a lens, the most important aspect is always price.

I suggest using the lens that you already own. If you are struggling with overexposed images in full sunlight, try researching neutral density filters. These filters reduce the amount of light that travels through the lens, which results in a more shallow depth of field. Some cameras have built-in filters that can be employed with the flick of a switch, but you can also buy neutral density filters that are simply placed in front of your existing lens.
— Bill Ridlehoover, NWTF video producer and editor

Q: What should the outdoorsman or outdoorswoman look for in a point-and-shoot camera to take in the woods or to just preserve the memories of the hunt? (megapixels, zoom, flash, video, size, etc.)

What are some must-have accessories for the camera or video camera when taking field shots?
— Roger Wolfe, Chapmanville, W.Va.
A: With the still and video camera markets flooded with various models that range greatly in price; I would first, determine your budget. Once you've decided the amount you are willing to spend, check websites such as consumerreports.org to research what models within your price range were rated the best. Of all the functions on a video camera, a good lens with zoom capabilities rates near the top of my list as most important feature when filming wildlife.

In my experience, capturing the moment as it happens is always best. Re-creating a recovery can be good, but capturing the initial reaction can be priceless. When setting up to video a hunt, be mindful of the entire hunt sequence, not just the final shot. After the recovery, all hunters should be respectful of the game that was shot and conscious of proper safety. The NWTF has a strict policy on how we videotape game that has been harvested.

When shooting video, I follow one simple rule: wide, medium and tight. The rule means I shoot every shot wide, zoom in to a medium shot and then shoot tight shots. After that, I try different angles, pans, etc. But, by following this rule, I know I have enough video to cover a hunt sequence or interview.

When shooting still photos, the landscape, light, and subject often determine what angle will make the best photo. I suggest creating different scenarios and practicing. In doing so, when you are in the field, your chances of capturing that "prize" will increase. Like many things, in still photography and shooting video, practice makes perfect.

For me, the shots you have a good feeling about normally turn out the best. When I'm in the field, if I feel confident about the setup, the outcome is often a positive one. If I don't feel good about it, I quickly look to make adjustments. In the outdoor business there are so many variables that are out of your control, but there are steps you can take to combat those variables and increase your chances of achieving a positive outcome.

First and foremost, I suggest packing plenty of extra batteries for your camera and wireless microphones. Secondly, carry a pack that is easily accessible in the field that does not draw unwanted attention to you. Another, often overlooked, accessory is a good lens cloth to keep your camera lens clean and free of debris. Water and dirt on the lens can ruin an otherwise perfect shot.
— Jason Brady, NWTF video producer and editor

Q: What is the best strategy for organizing trail camera pictures for better hunting opportunities? There is a wealth of information captured on these pictures but how do I organize that information for coming up with a better hunting strategy? I've heard GIS (Geographic Information Systems) could be used but I'm not sure how without GPS information and radio collars. Suggestions and experiences you have had with trail camera information would be much appreciated.
— Bob Schmid, Brookville, Pa.
A: The first step in utilizing trail cameras is to determine the end result you want. Are you using trail cameras to scout or pattern deer prior to hunting season, to conduct post-season camera surveys or to simply get pictures of bucks around the property?

If taking pre-season photographs of bucks is a primary objective of the survey, fall is the appropriate time to have the cameras running. Determining accurate estimates of deer density and sex ratio can be obtained during either pre- or post-season. However, for best estimates of population characteristics, you should conduct camera surveys during winter at a density of one camera per 100 acres.

To survey your property with trail cameras:

• Select camera stations carefully and pre-bait them for between four and six days.
  
  

• Set cameras on a 10-minute delay and operate them for at least five consecutive days. Operating cameras for up to 10 days can significantly improve your results, especially if individual buck photographs are an important objective.
  
  

• For a seven-day winter survey with one camera per 100 acres, assume you'll only get photos of 80-percent of the deer on your property and multiply the number of deer you see by a factor of 1.25.
  
  

• Rotate each camera to a new station after each survey period for up to four stations per camera if you have a limited number of cameras. Cameras should be dispersed over the entire area for each survey period.
  
  

The infrared-triggered camera method offers a practical option for surveying deer populations. It may not provide all the answers you need, but it is an exciting new tool you can use in conjunction with other deer data collection techniques.

To organize your photos:

• Use the same camera locations every year in order to standardize camera locations.
  
  

• Once camera locations are standardized, use a free Web-based program such as Google Earth to plot and number camera locations.
  
  

• Organize pictures by camera location in chronological order (both date and time), which will allow you to identify travel corridors and patterns to assist in patterning deer.
  
  

• Use as few cameras simultaneously as possible as this will allow you the opportunity to get multiple pictures of the same deer in one day and give you more information on travel corridors.
  
  

— Mark Hatfield, NWTF director of strategic conservation planning

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